Monday, September 27, 2010

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Monday, September 20, 2010

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Monday, September 13, 2010

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Marmara, on the routes of migratory birds and dolphins

We had read that in the Sea of \u200b\u200bMarmara, once there were many dolphins and not now. But we have come across every day: in pairs, in groups, alongside or to play for minutes and minutes with the bow of Fair Wind. There are still and there are many.
Unfortunately we have also seen two deaths, bloated float on the water, affected by the traffic of vessels is a constant panorama of the sea.


Even a sommergile we cross off Yassiada, the island that concentration and internment was in the sixties under a repressive military regime.
Today on the small island remain dilapidated and abandoned buildings that testify to this past.
And nearby, in Sivriada, we encountered the first flock of storks passing through on their long migration flight. More then we would have met the following days.


We touched on the Princes' Islands, where the recreational and tourism in Istanbul is spread throughout the year, then on the south coast of the sea we arrived at where we started Esenkoy the crossing to the island of Marmara. Almost sixty miles in eight hours, driven by wind and currents to more than seven knots to land in the pretty port of Asmolikoy. Again we met
kindness and sympathy with the locals and help as we needed.

The last night in the Sea of \u200b\u200bMarmara we passed in the quiet bay of Pasalimani. Again, like dolphins every day and always greet us on arrival to departure.


Then seventy miles downhill to the Dardanelles and soak Cannakale under the Trojan horse plays in all forms and materials in kiosks on the street.
Morning departure early for another long stretch of nearly sixty miles out from the Dardanelles, the Aegean and fall back to Mithimna on Lesbos, where we started almost three weeks earlier.

The end of the cruise for our fellow travelers is to Ayvalik, on the Turkish coast in front of Mytilene. Surrounded by an archipelago of small islands, Ayvalik is a quiet and pleasant town a tourist destination: daily connected with the Greek island of Lesbos is the starting point for a visit to the archaeological site of Pergamon.

Andrew, Albert and Barbara greet us: see you next season. We go two more weeks before returning.

Saturday, September 4, 2010

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Constantinople, the Bosporus and the Black Sea

We spent six days at sea to arrive at our destination from Lesbos. Now, for a few days, we are dedicated to visiting the city that has taken the baton of power from Rome, the capital of the Roman Empire then the center of the Ottoman Empire. Where to meet Europe and Asia, and different religions. From here ships over the centuries have started going to bring war and terror along the coasts of the Mediterranean. Here they returned with their prey collected in the raids won, but sometimes losses and reduced in number and equipment.



We visit the Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque, Saint Sophia, the streets the old city around the Galata Bridge and the Golden Horn. From the top of Galata Tower overlooking the Bosphorus and lengthen the look in the Sea of \u200b\u200bMarmara and the nearby islands. The Istanbul Modern has its charms and stretches along the two coasts, the European and Asian foods.


Then it's time to resume navigation. Before putting the bow south ascend the Bosporus, braving the traffic of ships and ferries that cross from side to side. Past the crossroads of the Horn of hours but the traffic is reduced. Opposing the current, sometimes impetuous and strong, we come to border the Black Sea for the night we pause in the pleasant little fishing port of Poyraz.


The Bosporus is the continuation of Istanbul. Old houses and palaces overlooking the water on both sides. Two high bridges always full of vehicle traffic in both directions. Then the old fortifications for the control of maritime traffic and widen the entrance to the quiet of the Black Sea

ascent past In Europe, upon your return, we are on the Asian side, literally pushed by the vortices of water that falls like a river. before returning in the Sea of \u200b\u200bMarmara the last picture in the background of the domes and towers that characterize the landscape of Constantinople / Istanbul.

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

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The Dardanelles: the pursuit of fast-running meda

From Mithimna Bozcada back-hauled to the wind to land at night in the first island in Turkey, after many Greek islands.
calm and order, welcomed us with kindness mooring at sunset and the prayer of the muezzin, which establishes the end of the day of fasting. We are in the ninth month of Islamic calendar, the month of Ramadan.

The next day towards the Dardanelles, with expectation, curiosity and careful respect for the sailing conditions which are not used: traffic, contrary to current and restricted waters.


The first part in sailing, but almost immediately starts the engine and sail along the coast line to reduce the effect of counter-current. Of up to three knots and Fair Wind effort in pursuit of a beacon that does not seem to be joined.
Meanwhile, ship traffic alternating cross flow uphill than downhill, and arrive in late afternoon Cannakale in time for the sunset prayer of the muezzin. A

Cannakale the morning passes by the practices of entry in Turkey, complex but not impossible to do. Much better, cheaper and, above all, do it yourself, rather than acquiesce to the exorbitant demands of agents who offer to make them for you.
Complete the practices, we can use the afternoon to continue the ascent of the Dardanelles and stop for the night just before the entrance to the Sea of \u200b\u200bMarmara.

the European coast of the Sea of \u200b\u200bMarmara Port offers some opportunities to stop sailing to Istanbul. The conditions are hard, but not prohibitive. The sea is more size than the strength of the wind can justify, also appear in the next few days. We think it is due to the small size of this sea and the effect of the current flowing from the Black Sea through the Bosporus, reaching to the Dardanelles, and flows like a river in the Aegean.

We go up to windward coast and do the Kumbag first stop in a fishing port, where we are greeted with sympathy and curiosity. Must be a few pleasure boats that make this route this season.


Another section the next day brings us to the wide and quiet port of Silivri. Hence we complete the path to land in the marina Atakoi of Istanbul, near the airport, arriving just when the show is about to begin the acrobatic team of Turkey. In training and Tricolour Arrows with numbers, over our heads seem to welcome us and celebrate with us the arrival at the destination of our cruise: Constantinople.